How to align different types of nails: tips for masters
Flat, rounded, deformed, springboard-like - each type of nail plate requires its own leveling technique. Some need to build up the apex and add volume, while others need to avoid overloading the nail with material.
The shape, growth direction, and condition of your natural nails determine which material to choose, where to place the highest point, and whether you can limit yourself to a base or whether it's better to work with gel.
Where to start leveling
Regardless of the shape of the nail, the preparation always remains the same.
Before leveling you need to:
- remove the previous coating;
- do a manicure;
- if remover was used, be sure to wash it off with soap and water;
- thoroughly degrease the nail plate;
- Apply a thin rubbing layer of elastic base.
Proper preparation creates the foundation for good adhesion and long-lasting wear of the coating.
Flat nail plate
Flat nails require properly constructed architecture. Leaving the surface without sufficient volume will make the coating less resistant to stress and the free edge more vulnerable to chipping.
In this case, it is important to form the correct apex and C-bend. For work, a thicker base or gel is most often used, which allows you to create the necessary thickness without losing strength.
If the nail is wide, it is better to apply the material in two stages. This way it is distributed more evenly and the risk of severe burning during polymerization is reduced.
Deformed nail plate
When working with deformed nails, it is important not to try to immediately level the entire surface with one layer of material.
First, you need to fill in all the irregularities and gaps, and only then proceed to the main leveling. This approach helps to get the correct architecture, even reflection and not create excess volume.
Rounded nail plate
Rounded nails already have a natural arch, so the main task of the master is not to overload it with material.
For this type of nail, a medium-thickness base or liquid gel is usually sufficient. They allow you to level the surface without creating excessive thickness.
There is no need to build a high apex in this case. Excess material will make the nail visually more massive and may disrupt the natural architecture.
Springboard-shaped nails
If the nail grows upwards, the alignment technique will be different.
In this case, the apex is moved slightly forward to visually align the direction of nail growth. At the same time, it should not be made too high or applied too much material.
If you need to significantly adjust the shape or work with a long length, it is more advisable to use gel.
Trapezoidal nail plate
The trapezoidal shape requires special attention, because the capabilities of the base have their limits.
If the nail extension is minor, it can be partially corrected during alignment. However, if the trapezoid is very pronounced, changing the shape with just the base will not work.
In such cases, it is better to use gel or acrylic modeling. Also, do not narrow the sides of the nail too much when filing, so as not to weaken its structure.
Biting nails
If the free edge grows downward, standard alignment does not always give the desired result.
For short nails, it is enough to correctly build the architecture with a solid material. However, if you need to significantly change the direction of nail growth, modeling is the best solution.
Also, in such cases, it is not recommended to leave a large length, since the load on the free edge increases significantly.
Standard nail plate
The standard form is the easiest to work with.
After applying a thin base coat, you can level it with a base or liquid gel, gradually distributing the material over the entire surface of the nail.
After polymerization, it is worth checking the reflection. It is this that helps to assess whether the material is evenly distributed and whether the architecture is built correctly.
Why does the base burn in the lamp?
Burning during polymerization is a normal reaction of the material. It occurs due to the heat released during the curing of the base.
The intensity of the burning depends on the thickness of the layer, the lamp power, the thickness of the natural nail, and the individual sensitivity of the client.
If the client experiences severe discomfort, the hand should be immediately removed from the lamp, the nail should be allowed to cool, and only then should polymerization be continued.
And remember: the shape of the natural nail always tells you how to properly perform the alignment. If you take into account its features, it will be easier to choose the material, build the correct architecture and get a coating that is comfortable to wear.
